Thursday, October 10, 2013

An "Easy" Top

I can spend a long time flipping through pattern books or browsing online, but often it's an image on Pattern Review or someone's blog that makes me feel an urgent need to make a certain look.

That's what happened a while back when I saw Vogue 8833 on Goodbye Valentino.



Sarah's original version was sleeveless, with a ruffle along the front edges. I just loved the idea of a wrap style blouse and knew immediately it was a "must sew" pattern. 

I finally got around to giving it a go last weekend. I envisioned it in gingham for fall, with 3/4 length sleeves and the collar with band. Once again, my local fabric store let me down, as every bit of the gingham fabric was mostly polyester. It was cheap as dirt though, so I bought some in orange & white.



My camera refused to let me shoot without the flash inside but I promise the top isn't nearly as shiny as it appears in these pictures. 
Side view showing poorly fitting sleeve : (

Here's the quick 411 on my experience with Vogue 8833:

It's a "Custom Fit" pattern, meaning that multiple cup sizes are included. I LOVE this feature. I cut the size 10 with a B cup and feel like I still could have taken out a little in the upper front chest, but the princess seam needed no alteration. 

When I make this again, I will add a little width to the hip and lengthen it by several inches. It would be more flattering on me if it were longer, and it is most definitely longer on the pattern envelope model. I will also shorten the tie belt. 

Maybe I am simply terrible at sleeve installation, but my last two tops have had sleeves that were too big for the armscye. The crappy fabric on this one didn't help. I would love to know if anyone else encounters this problem and what the simplest adjustment prior to cutting would be.

The collar band was a success. Instead of the pattern directions, I used techniques from the Craftsy Jacket Class, and a few different internet tutorials. It wasn't speedy, and the collar ended up backwards, but practice makes perfect and I doubt anyone will ever inspect it closely enough to tell. 

This style really suits me, and the pattern deserves better fabric, so I'll try again. I really loved Sarah's idea for the ruffled neckline and intend to shamelessly copy it.


8 comments:

  1. There is way too much ease at the top of the sleeve for most of us. I generally have to trim anywhere from .5 to 1.5 inches away from this area. Next time baste one sleeve in first, fit, then adjust. When you get it right, remove the basting stitches, press the good sleeve and use it as a pattern to re-cut your other sleeve. I do this every time with a new pattern. I HATE puffy sleeves when they aren't supposed to be that way!

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    1. Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise! I will give this a go on my next top.

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  2. Beautiful shirt, Pam! I found the same issue with the sleeve. During my week with Susan Khalje I learned there should be approximately 1 and a half inches of ease in a sleeve.
    I followed Meg's suggestion for a tunic and it worked beautifully.

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    1. I have to admit to being a little chicken/lazy about messing around with sleeves. It's frustrating that it is even necessary- the pattern pieces should fit together, shouldn't they?!!! Fortunately, I like the top so much that I will be sure to fix the next one.

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  3. Very pretty, Pam! That style is very flattering on you - and I love wraps so much that I might decide to make one of these myself! I wonder if the tie belt is that long to accommodate a double wrap around the waist?

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    1. Thanks! I'm really loving this style for clothing.I tried to double wrap the tie but was only left with a tiny knot, so I will probably just plan to shorten it substantially next time.

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  4. Love that style on you, Pam. As Sarah mentioned, Susan Khalje recommends measuring the armscye and the sleeve, making sure to adjust until there is only 1 1/2" of ease. Also, when inserting the sleeve, always have the smaller piece on top when you sew.

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  5. This look so chic. Wrap styles do suit you.

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